May
okay so spider stitch basics
So you’re gonna want to start with a foundation chain that’s a multiple of 6, plus 2 extra for turning. I learned this back in spring 2022 when I was making a shawl for my sister’s birthday and honestly I picked spider stitch because it looked impressive but wasn’t actually that complicated once you got the rhythm down.
The basic idea is you’re creating these little spider web looking clusters by working multiple stitches into the same space, then chaining between them. It creates this really open, lacy fabric that drapes really nicely. I used Red Heart Super Saver in that seafoam color for my first one because it was what I had lying around and honestly it worked fine even though everyone says you need fancy yarn for lacy stuff.
what you actually do row by row
Row 1 is your foundation row and it’s pretty straightforward. Chain your multiple of 6 plus 2, then double crochet in the 4th chain from hook. dc, ch 1, dc all in that same stitch. Skip 2 chains, single crochet in the next chain. Skip 2 more chains, then do (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) all in the next chain. That’s your spider cluster right there.
Keep repeating that pattern – skip 2, sc in next, skip 2, make a spider cluster – until you get to the end of your row. The last bit should end with (dc, ch 1, dc) in the last chain, then one more dc in that same spot.
Row 2 is where it gets slightly annoying because you’re working into chain spaces instead of actual stitches and it can be hard to see what you’re doing if your lighting isn’t great. Chain 3 (counts as first dc), turn your work. Make a (dc, ch 1, dc) in that first chain-1 space from the previous row.
Then you’re gonna single crochet around the next sc from below – like you’re literally going around the post of it, not into the top. This was the part that confused me for probably three hours when I first learned it. Then make your (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1, dc) cluster in the center chain-1 space of the spider from the row below.
the rhythm once you get going
After you do like 4 or 5 rows it becomes pretty automatic. You’re always working clusters into chain spaces and single crochets around the single crochets from before. The pattern just stacks on itself.
One thing that really annoyed me about spider stitch is how the edges can get wonky if you’re not paying attention. Like you’ll be cruising along watching Love Island or whatever and suddenly you realize your rectangle is turning into a trapezoid because you missed a stitch somewhere. I had to rip back probably 8 rows on that shawl project because I got distracted when my cat knocked over a plant.
The tension matters more than you’d think with this stitch too. If you crochet really tight, the whole lacy effect disappears and it just looks bunched up. But if you’re too loose, it gets floppy and stretched out looking. I usually go up one hook size from what the yarn label recommends – so if I’m using worsted weight that says use a H hook, I’ll use an I or J instead.
yarn choices that actually matter
Okay so I’ve done spider stitch with a bunch of different yarns at this point and here’s what I’ve noticed. Red Heart Super Saver works but it’s not ideal because it doesn’t have much drape. It’s fine for like a dishcloth or something structured but for a shawl or scarf you want something softer.
I made a really pretty wrap in summer 2024 using Caron Simply Soft in that grey heather color and it turned out way better. The yarn has more give to it so the lace pattern really opened up. Also it was during a particularly hot week and working with acrylic when it’s 90 degrees out is kind of miserable but whatever, I committed to finishing it.
Lion Brand Wool-Ease is another good option if you want something with a bit of wool in it. The blend makes it warmer but still soft enough that the stitch pattern shows up nice. I haven’t tried it with cotton yet but I bet it would work for a summer top or beach cover-up type thing.
The fancy yarns like Malabrigo or those hand-dyed ones from local shops – honestly they might be wasted on spider stitch because the color pooling doesn’t really… I mean it works but you lose some of the variegation in all those chain spaces. Solid or semi-solid colors show off the pattern better.
counting and keeping track
This is where I always mess up if I’m being honest. Each spider cluster has that center chain-1 space and that’s what you need to find on the next row. But when you’ve got a whole row of them and you’re trying to count, they all blur together.
What helps is putting stitch markers in the center chain space of each spider as you complete it. I use those little plastic ones that look like safety pins. Then on the next row you can actually see where you’re supposed to work your next cluster without having to count and recount and still somehow get it wrong.
The single crochets between the spiders are your anchors basically. If you make sure you’re always putting them around the sc from the previous row, your clusters will automatically be in the right spots. Probably. Most of the time.
fixing mistakes without starting over
So let’s say you’re like 15 rows in and you notice something’s off. Don’t automatically rip everything out. First figure out where the mistake actually is.
If you missed a chain space somewhere, you can sometimes fudge it by adjusting the next row slightly. Like if you accidentally did a cluster with only 2 dc’s instead of 3, just make the one above it normal and it’ll probably be fine. Nobody’s gonna examine your work that closely anyway.
If you added an extra cluster or your stitch count is way off, then yeah you gotta rip back to that row. But here’s a trick – when you’re frogging lace patterns, go slow and keep the yarn somewhat taut. If you just yank it all out fast, the yarn gets kinked and twisted and then it’s annoying to work with when you start again.
I learned that the hard way on a blanket square I was making. Ripped out like 20 rows really fast because I was frustrated, and then the yarn was so messed up I had to let it sit overnight weighted down with books to straighten out.
making it bigger or smaller
The nice thing about spider stitch is you can easily adjust the size. Just add or subtract multiples of 6 from your foundation chain. Want it wider? Add another 6 chains and you’ll get one more spider repeat.
For length you just keep going with the pattern rows until it’s as long as you want. There’s no complicated shaping or anything. I made a scarf that was basically just spider stitch worked until I ran out of yarn – very scientific approach but it worked.
If you want to get fancy you can increase or decrease mid-project by adding or removing spider clusters, but honestly that’s more complicated than it’s worth for most projects. Just plan your starting chain to be the width you want.
what works for different projects
Shawls are like the obvious choice for spider stitch. The lacy pattern makes them light enough to wear in spring or fall, and they look more complicated than they are which is always nice. I usually do a triangle shawl by starting with a small chain and increasing on one side, but you could also just make a rectangle and wear it different ways.
Scarves work great too but they eat up yarn faster than you’d think because of all those chain spaces. That summer 2024 project I mentioned earlier took like 4 skeins of Caron Simply Soft and I thought I’d only need 2. So buy extra.
I tried making a sweater with spider stitch once and it was… okay the problem is it’s really stretchy and doesn’t hold its shape well for something structured. A loose cardigan or kimono style thing would probably work better than a fitted sweater. You’d need to line it or wear a camisole under it anyway because it’s so open.
Baby blankets are popular for this stitch but I haven’t made one yet because honestly babies don’t care about lace patterns and parents worry about little fingers getting caught in the holes. But people make them all the time so it must be fine.
blocking and finishing
You gotta block spider stitch or it looks like a crumpled mess, not gonna lie. Get it wet – I just use the sink with some wool wash even for acrylic – then squeeze out the water. Don’t wring it or the stitches get twisted.
Lay it flat on a towel or blocking mat and pin it out to the dimensions you want. This is where the lace pattern really opens up and starts looking like actual spider webs. I use those T-pins stuck through the chain spaces around the edges.
Let it dry completely before you unpin it. Like fully dry, not just mostly dry, or it’ll shrink back up. This takes forever if you live somewhere humid – sometimes I point a fan at it to speed things up.
For edges, I usually just leave them as-is because the pattern creates a natural scalloped edge that looks finished. But you could add a simple single crochet border if you want something more defined. Just sc in each stitch and chain space around, maybe with a few extra sc’s in the corners so it lays flat.
trouble shooting the annoying parts
The chain-1 spaces getting too tight is a common problem. If you’re having trouble fitting your hook into them on the next row, you’re probably chaining too tight. Make your chains a bit looser – like consciously pull more yarn through when you chain.
If your spiders look lopsided, check that you’re doing the same number of dc’s in each cluster. It’s easy to accidentally do 2 instead of 3, or 4 instead of 3, especially at the end of a row when you’re tired. I literally count out loud sometimes – “one, two, three” – because otherwise I zone out and forget where I am.
The single crochets around the posts can be confusing because there’s different ways to do it. Some people go from front to back, some go around from the back. It doesn’t really matter as long as you’re consistent. I go from front to back because that’s how I learned it but the other way probably works fine too.
Running out of yarn before your project is done is the worst with lacy patterns because you can really see the dye lot difference if you have to switch. Try to overestimate how much you need. Like if you think you need 3 skeins, get 4. You can always make a matching… I don’t know, headband or something with the extra.
variations you can try
Once you’re comfortable with basic spider stitch you can mess around with it. Using different numbers of dc’s in the clusters changes the look – like 5 or 7 instead of 3 makes bigger spiders but uses more yarn.
You can also change up the chains between clusters. More chains makes it lacier and more open, fewer chains makes it denser. I did a version with ch-2 between the single crochets and clusters instead of just working them right next to each other, and it created almost like a mesh effect.
Mixing spider stitch with other stitches in stripes can look cool too. Like do 4 rows of spider, then 2 rows of regular double crochet, then back to spider. Breaks up the pattern and uses less yarn overall.
Okay I think that covers most of the important stuff about spider stitch. It’s really not that hard once you get the hang of where everything goes, just takes some practice to build up the muscle memory.
